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Tips and TechniquesHere are a few Art Techniques you can try out with Art-Kure. Technique 1 - Graduated and Variegated Wash
Technique 1Graduated and variegated Wash
A Graduated wash is a wash that shifts in tone and a variegated wash shifts in colour. Using Art-Kure you will approach a graduated wash differently than from the traditional technique. First you use the colour sketch brush at the top of the area you wish to wash.
You must move quickly so that the fully saturated colour does not stain
your paper, as soon as you have made a thick line of colour, take the
water sketch brush (I recommend a Large or Chisel) and drag the colour
down the page in long horizontal strokes. Allow a lot of water to flow
from your brush and it’s sometimes easier to have your paper at a slant
so that gravity helps you to pull down the colour. Allow each horizontal
stroke to flow partially into the previous stroke and never work back
into the wash once you have laid it down. As you move further down the
page the colour should dilute, so you have full colour saturation at the
top and a lovely diluted tone at the bottom. Art-Kure is great for graduated
washes as you can achieve quite a uniform tonal change.
For variegated washes the technique is different because you are using two or more different colours and are much less predictable than graduated washes. However you can achieve great and unusual effects by letting colours bleed into each other. This technique is most commonly used for sunsets and sunrises. The technique I have found most successful is to wet your paper first, as you would traditionally with water and a brush. Using the Water Sketch Brush, whilst squeezing it, flood water onto the page. Then move it around with the brush to cover the whole area you would like to paint. Select your colours and decide where you would like them to be (e.g. at the top or bottom), then using the Colour Sketch Brush cover the area with broad horizontal strokes. The strokes should blend into each other, but if it is looking a bit streaky then go over again with the water brush. Then apply your second colour and do the same. Finally tilt your paper at an angle and allow the colours to bleed into each other, creating a variegated wash. Technique 2Backruns or cauliflowers
Backruns and cauliflowers are effects that are often accidental and usually hard to control. There are a lot of artists who consider them to be too unpredictable and try to avoid them. However, they can look very effective when incorporated into a painting, or if you are creating a decorative background which you would like to add details to later (e.g. atmospheric backgrounds). Art-Kure is wonderfully receptive to this technique, as the colours are completely water-soluble wet or dry. When you lay down a wash and then apply more colour into it before it’s completely dry you will find that the new paint will seep into the old creating bizarre shaped blotches with hard jagged edges. The more absorbent and rough the paper the less this will happen. Backruns are great for atmospheric skies, flower petals and water reflections. Be careful about how wet your wash is before trying this technique. If the wash still has a reflective sheen on it then it is too wet and the colour will simply blend in and not give you any jagged edges (giving you a wet into wet effect). This process is very intuitive and each artist will have to experiment before trying it on a finished project. Technique 3Wet on dry
Applying new wet layers of colour over earlier dried layers is the traditional method of building up a watercolour painting. If you want to create darker and richer areas in your painting, making it more striking and less wishy-washy, this is a great technique. However, be aware that this technique is slightly harder to use with Art-Kure, this is because the watercolour is so sensitive to any addition of water because they are fully water-soluble. You can still use wet on dry but you have to have a lot of patience. In the example provided, I used wet into wet for the sky that covered the whole area, I had to wait for about 20 minutes for it to dry. After it was absolutely dry I used a Colour Sketch Brush directly onto the paper to create a crisp horizon line and the standing stones. I continued to use the Colour Sketch Brush down the page a little way and then used the Water Sketch Brush to create another graduated wash. The reason why I wanted to separate the bottom wash to the top was so that any addition of water didn’t disturb the colour already on the paper. It is very easy to disturb washes and create unintentional and annoying backruns. It’s also essential to have a completely dry painting before adding new layers, if you want to achieve completely crisp lines, as I have done with the background hills. It only takes a very minute amount of dampness for one colour to bleed into another. Another way to approach this problem is to only wet the area you want and not the whole surface, therefore making it less essential to wait for drying. Also, be aware that small bleed lines will always appear (blurring crisp lines) if your paper is naturally rough or you have already painted several layers onto the painting. Remember the more layers you paint the more you will degrade your paper. Technique 4Wet into wet
This is where you apply new colour without waiting for the previous colours to dry so that they bleed and blend into each other without any hard edges or backruns. There is not much control with this technique but the results can be very spectacular and rewarding. Firstly dampen your paper and try to keep it that way until you have finished all the areas that you want to be wet. This technique should not be used exclusively on a painting, as the results may be formless and undefined. It is usually most effective juxtaposed with sharp hard lines, giving your picture variety. After applying the wet into wet technique wait for the painting to dry and see where you need to sharpen it up. Also be aware that it is difficult to use the paper for highlights with this technique. If you want to highlight your work, wait for the paper to dry and use the Mixing White Colour Sketch Brush. Step by step using wet into wetDo a faint outline drawing of your picture or an underpainting (see underpainting technique). Then dampen the page with an Art-Kure Water Sketch Brush. The Large or Chisel are the best for this exercise, as they can cover large areas easily.Use the Colour Sketch Brushes you have chosen and apply them to the paper gentling dabbing and watch them spread and merge. You may want to add some more water if the colour is too intence. After your initial layer is down you can add detail and definition to the painting with the Colour Sketch Brushes, or if you want to add subtle/dilute colour you can tip colour onto the Water Sketch Brush and use that. (see tipping technique). Be careful not to overwork the painting as you may find that you create backruns, especially if you use too much water while building up the definition. There is another method of using wet into wet. First apply your Colour Sketch Brush with the dry brush technique then add water with a Water Sketch Brush. Before the first colour dries apply your second colour directly on top. If you want several colours to bleed into one another, as you would for a stormy sky, apply different colours with the dry brush technique then use the Water Brush after to blend the colours together. Technique 5Tipping Technique
For detailing with fine lines use the tip of the Colour Sketch Brush for full saturated colour. Or if you prefer subtle and translucent lines, transfer some colour from the Colour Sketch Brush to the Water Sketch Brush by touching the tips together and using the colour on the Water Sketch Brush to add to your picture. Back to top Technique 6Body colourThe Mixing White is unique to the Art-Kure range and completely different in application compared to the other colours. The paint is not transparent watercolour but opaque with a similar consistency to Gouache paint, or what the Old Masters called ‘Body Colour’.
The Old Masters used Body Colour to tint and highlight their art works. It was
very rare to use Body Colour fully saturated to make a pure white as you
would with Acrylic for example, where the white can be used to cover colour
not to mix and tint colour. Although you can tint with acrylic white it
can sometimes be too stark and oblique. The Body Colour is not as thick
in consistency or as opaque as acrylics. Instead the highlights are
muted or tinted with the underlying colour, creating a more subtle effect.
Also, with Body Colour, there are some interesting effects that can be achieved due to it’s unusual properties. One of these effects is the luminosity of the paint once it has dried on the painting. Turner is a classic example, as he used this kind of paint to get luminous (i.e. glowing or shimmering) skies. The Mixing White has this iridescence as one of its properties, amongst many. If you wish to create a more opaque tint then simply apply more layers. The more layers of White you apply the more opaque and glossy or iridescent the result will be. The less layers you apply the less opaque and mat it will be. Highlights on fruit or reflected light effects can be achieved very easily with the White and will give you an iridescent or glossy result, also great for misty or snowy skies. If you want to avoid texture or streaks in your tints then use the Water Sketch Brush to dilute the consistency of the Mixing White. Because the White has a moderately thick consistency it really lends itself to textured techniques i.e. Scumbling and Cross Hatching. Back to top
Technique 7Underpainting (ghost lines)This is an alternative to drawing your picture with pencil and then painting over the top. Some artists don’t like to see the pencil outline coming through their paintings, which can often happen with watercolour due to its transparency. So they choose to build up their paintings from a monochromic tonal sketch. This literally means you are drawing with paint and the best colour for this is the Light Grey (91), as it will completely disappear the more you build up your painting. It is also a very light and neutral tone so it shouldn’t interfere with any other colours on top. Back to top Technique 8Dry brush technique
Holding the brush on the side spread the colour quickly and lightly over the paper to cover an area with rough broken colour. Then you can go over it again with the Water Sketch Brush to soften or wash it down. This technique is very useful for all the Art-Kure watercolour sets. This technique is also very good for creating textures and showing brushwork. Back to top Technique 9Laying down a mini palette and other mixing techniques
The mini palette is a great method for creating subtle colour, detailing and
mixing colour. Simply create three small squares of colour at the base of
the paper and use the Water Sketch Brush to pick up colour then apply it
to the composition as weaker colour lines or shades.
You can also use it
to mix one colour with another, again using the Water Sketch Brush. The
mini palette is good for initial compositional sketching and allows you
to use diluted or transparent colour. It’s also a good method of creating
a colour sketch record.
Another way of mixing colours with Art-Kure is to mix them directly on the painting. You can lay down the first colour you want, for example you Yellow No.50, either fully saturated or washed down. Then, if you want to darken/lighten the tone or change the hue, place the other required colour, for example your Persian Blue No.32, over the first and mix them together with the Water Sketch Brush. With the Art-Kure system you always use the Water Sketch Brush to mix colours. However, be careful using this technique with high staining colours like the reds and pinks. You could end up with a stain of the original colour through the mix. Back to top For more techniques Click Here |
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